Waldwick Girls in Italy – Genoa and the 5 Terre

Living in Italy, I have many wonderful colleagues and friends.  However, nothing can replace my best friends at home, friends who have become like family.  In May, I was super lucky that two of those friends visited at the same time, ladies I’ve known for about 19 years.  When Jen and Anna arrived, we called it “Waldwick Girls in Italy.”  And that entire time, I felt at home and was filled with pure joy as I had the best of both worlds.

They arrived on Friday May 10th and flew back early morning on Tuesday May 14th for a quick Girls’ Getaway.  I know Jen and Anna from the track team in high school, and since then we have had many, many adventures from road trips to meets at Princeton and Brown University to visiting Jen in California to traveling in Belgium and Switzerland with Anna.  Now it was time for us to kick back, chillax’, catch up, eat up, and soak up some sun.  Would the weather finally cooperate?

Upon their arrival, I escorted the girls to my apartment for a nap while I finished the workday.  Afterwards, I went down to change for the volleyball tournament against the German School.  They were  our #1 fans, as we played.

I'm in the royal blue and tennis skirt

I’m in the royal blue and tennis skirt

IMG_20130510_112331_567After a quick tour of the school, we met in the staff room for pizza, focaccia, salami, and of course prosecco.  We had the opportunity to chat with the staff of the German School, all intimidating in their matching uniforms, then headed to the apartment to freshen up for dinner.  The girls surprised me with many gifts.  Anna brought a selection of tastes from home, including cheddar cheese! and ingredients for Thai and Tacos.   Among other goodies I requested from home, Jen surprised me with a mortar and pestle so I wouldn’t have to make my guacamole with a bowl and shot glass.

tastes from home

tastes from home

After the goodies, we walked down to one of my favorite restaurants by the sea, facing the beach where I love to swim.  This upscale place is a bit expensive yet worth it for the delicious quality.

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After a super delicious dinner and delectable desserts, we walked towards Nervi, enjoying the fresh sea air and views, then back up to my apartment where we tucked ourselves in for a relaxing night.

On Saturday morning, we lazily awoke and convened in the kitchen for coffee and cheerful chatter.  We didn’t preplan our train to Vernazza because there were many options, and we just wanted to rest.  I put out a little breakfast spread for the ladies, then we were on our way to Nervi where we caught the train to the Cinque Terre.

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After a beautiful hour and 20 minutes, we arrived in the Cinque Terre.  The Five Lands — 5 small villages nestled in the mountains along the rocky coast, villages that have preserved their own unique culture due to their isolated location for many years.  It is possible to hike between all five villages, although after the devastating flood of October 2011 there are still parts of the trail that are not yet open.  It took more than six months to clear the earth that swamped the villages– destroying homes and businesses, bridges and the landscape.  Yet with careful determination, 5 Terre was open for business last summer and was looking absolutely great for our visit this May.  On his site, my travel idol Rick Steves explains the disaster and recovery efforts.  He also provides much amazing information about the region.  He may be the reason why the predominantly heard language in the 5 Terre is English, and most of those folks are toting his guidebooks.  But these are my favorite type of traveler, so I don’t mind.

Vernazza before the flood:

The floodwaters rush through the charming town:

Rick Steves takes us to Vernazza 6 months after the flood:

When we arrived in town, we were happy to see that Vernazza was almost back to her old self, vibrant and restored.  But it’s impossible to forget the floods, as a giant photo reminds visitors as they exit the train.

We walked up the main street to our charming B&B, where we checked into our quaint room, then proceeded to walk around, explore town, and enjoy a great lunch.

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The main street’s looking good

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Colorful umbrellas provide a stunning backdrop for lunchtime reverie

After a delicious meal, we hiked through town and then decided to stroll to enjoy the gorgeous views on the trail to Monterosso, where I stayed with my mother in April.

The following slideshow features highlights of our journey.

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At the conclusion of our awe-inspiring hike, which was also an amazing workout, we saw a line.  People were queuing up for a limoncello and lemonade stand on a man’s farm, served fresh from the lemon trees.  Anna and I enjoyed lemonade while Jen had limoncello. I had a sip and regret not buying any.  I’ll have to go back.  Luckily it’s so close that I can return.  We made friends with the old man selling the lemonade, and he invited me to go on his boat one day when he’s in Genoa.  I have his business card.
Jen snapped this photo of me talking at the stand

Jen snapped this photo of me talking at the stand

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Jen enjoying her limoncello

Next, we completed the trail then to Monterosso.

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Once in Monterosso, we took some photos

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then I took the girls straight to Cantina di Miky where a fellow Waldwick Girl works, as mentioned in my previous Cinque Terre post.  We enjoyed a delicious meal, then posed for a picture with Christine.

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We had delicious food, and anna especially loved the fried stracchino and vowed to recreate it when she returned home.  She even found a distributor for stracchino in the US.  At the conclusion of our meal, we were happily buzzed and boarded a train for a quick ride back to Vernazza and our cozy hotel room.

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I fell asleep before I even touched my book.  Unfortunately, the girls had a bit of jet lag and were up a while.  But we woke up happy the next morning and enjoyed breakfast at the restaurant downstairs run by twin brothers from Sicily.  Sicilian breakfasts are very, very sweet.  The guys entertained us, and I got another business card as I made more friends once they realized I lived locally.  “Come back and visit soon.  Watch TV, you will learn Italian,” they said as I left.

We had just enough time to hike the hills right in town for some gorgeous photos.  Finally, the Cinque Terre under stunning blue skies.  Splendid.

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On top of the world on a gorgeous day.

On top of the world on a gorgeous day.

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After a Siren photoshoot, we boarded the train for Genoa, where it was finally swimming weather.  We enjoyed a couple of hours on my local beach before dinner.

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perfect weather for my first dip of the season

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Next, we explored Genoa’s Medieval Center, where I gave the girls some tips for tomorrow’s exploration as I would sadly be at work.  Then we enjoyed a nice meal at the Porto Antico.

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Photoshoot at Piazza de Ferrari

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Waldwick Girls in Italy

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Golden hour of sunshine at the Porto Antico

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On Monday, Anna and Jen explored the Medieval Center on their own after a lazy start and a yummy breakfast at their hotel.  (They stayed at a hotel the last two nights since I would be working and so they’d be more comfortable).  I met up with them for some shopping at the COOP Supermarket, then chilled in the room a bit before boarding a bus to Nervi where we walked on the passegiata for more stunning views.  We had an aperitivo on the passegiatta,

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then concluded the evening with a meal at Halloween, a pizza place in the little port of Nervi.

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Back to the hotel for vino and Girl Talk before I headed to my apartment for sweet dreams.  The girls left very early the next morning, and I missed them right away.  I was so grateful for such a wonderful and joyous mini-break!  Thanks Jen and Anna!

Stronger than the Storm – The Jersey Shore!

In Italy, I watch Hulu over a NYC VPN, which gives me local commercials and subsequently helps me feel connected while getting my American TV fix.  In the months before I left Genoa, I kept seeing one commercial over and over.  An ad for the Jersey Shore: Stronger than the Storm.  The commercial aims to let people know that although Superstorm Sandy devastated the area, much money and time has been invested to clean up beaches, rebuild boardwalks, and reopen businesses to lure tourists again to one of our favorite vacation meccas.

It’s kind of cheesy but super catchy, and the commercial fills me with pride for home.  And now that I am home, I am happy when the commercial comes on.  I’ve even wondered if there is a full-length version of the song.  I am kind of embarrassed to admit it because I know it may annoy many, but for me I love the message.  I was born in Yonkers, NY and didn’t move to NJ until I was 9, but I lived there long enough to get that Jersey pride, long enough to know that the show Jersey Shore might be representative of a small group of folks who get a house in Seaside (or Slea Side) but that is not what it really is.  It’s families and friends.  Something so simple and pure.

I think of Bruce Springsteen.  I think of my childhood.  I think of all the memories I had and all the memories I will have.  And I cannot forget the absolute heartbreak I felt last October when Sandy hit, as I posted here and as was reposted on the blog Jersey Shore Stories.

“Do they really have to advertise they are open?” critics ask.  “Are they really afraid they are going to be impaled on a carnival ride or something?”  Well, that might be part of it, but the other part is to let people know that while yes, there is much work to be done, the beaches and boardwalks are there for us to enjoy once again.  Coming to the shore again is step 1 in the healing process.  Other critics say, “Why would they focus on the boardwalks when people are homeless?”  The truth is that they must invest in tourism to bring more money and life back to the shore points.  If people stop visiting, the economic damage will be even worse and the recovery even slower.  I am horrified and upset at how long it is taking to rebuild after Sandy, and I speak from a personal standpoint because my brother’s two businesses suffered severe flood damage and he was denied FEMA loans for both.  But I am happy that Jersey is moving forward.

This past Sunday, I went to the Jersey Shore for the first time since Sandy.  I drove down with my friend Brendan who you may recall from my Spring Break posts in Italy and Switzerland.  We headed for Point Pleasant, excited for a beautiful beachy day reliving fun memories from past summers down the shore.  While talking in the car, we overshot Point Pleasant Beach, though, and ended up in Mantoloking where I gasped.  There was clear devastation.  Houses in ruins, the beach in various stages of cleanup, piles of debris everywhere.  I was saddened and apologized for taking us to something we didn’t want to see, but Brendan said, “This is history.  It’s important to see it.  And also, this is a boom for the economy.  Look at all the construction business.”  That is true, but I hope people are ok.

Then eventually to Point Pleasant, with the boardwalk vibrant, filled with happy vacationers. There were many houses in various states of repair, but they had clearly worked hard to open shops.  It felt right.

We darted straight into the waves, tumbling and laughing in the water.  And when a wave would throw us into a pebbly mess, Brendan would say, “Perhaps we are not stronger than the storm.  But you know what is?  The shore.”

I took a relaxing nap on the beach and awoke, sifting seashells and pebbles through my fingers, wondering where these grains of sand were in October.  Children laughed, families bickered, music blasted from the Jenkinson’s rebuilt Tiki bar.  I was just so glad to be there.  And afterwards, we had some homemade ice cream from Hoffman’s, which was the perfect end to a gorgeous and relaxing day.  And we didn’t hit any traffic on the way home!  The first of many Jersey Shore days this summer.  Grateful.

Mamma’s Spring Visit and the Cinque Terre

My mother visited for 10 days in November over Thanksgiving, which just happened to coincide with the glorious warm sunny weather turning to chilly rain.  She had a lovely visit yet was eager to see Genoa in the sunshine, so she booked a second visit this past April . . . just in time for a 4 day break for the Italian Holiday (Festa della Liberazione) from Thursday April 25 – Sunday April 28,  followed by a 1 day holiday on May 1st for European Labor Day.

When she arrived, she already felt comfortable and at home in my apartment while I worked, and was looking forward to living like a local, shopping, walking around, and meeting me at an osteria or bar for lunch or making lunch together.  At night, we’d visit Nervi or downtown Genoa, make dinner, or just enjoy a light snack in the apartment.  We settled into a cozy routine and tried not to be too disappointed that the glorious spring weather everyone had promised us had not yet arrived.  It was still a bit cool and awfully rainy.

We booked 3 nights in the Cinque Terre, my favorite nearby playground.  The Cinque Terre is only 1.5 hours away by local train, yet feels like a magical vacation paradise.  In fact, when I was first recruited for this job, I looked at Genoa on the map and gasped, “It’s right on the water!  And  . . .it’s right by the Cinque Terre!”  I had always wanted to go there after seeing gorgeous blue glimpses from the windows as our train darted between tunnels back in 2004.  My Mom and I were traveling around Europe together as a gift for my Masters in English.  It was her first time in Europe, and I was taking her to some of my favorite destinations.  We glimpsed a new possibility and knew one day we had to return.

We had originally only booked 2 nights in a Monterosso hotel on the beach, but added a third night when we saw a chance for sunshine on Thursday.  Our original hotel wasn’t available, so we opted for an upgraded wonderful hotel with a wraparound balcony, also on the beach for that first night.  Yet while we left a warm sunny Genoa, Monterosso had turned chilly and cloudy unlike the prediction.  It was still lovely.  We spent the next few days enjoying the quiet peace of the Cinque Terre, walking through town, hiking hills, and wishing the sun would come out just a bit so we could see that stunning blue, the scene we saw from the train, the scene I loved when I visited my second weekend in Genoa last August.  We hoped to swim, but we didn’t mind reading on the beach when it wasn’t raining.  And we ate very, very well.

In fact, one of my favorite stories in Genoa happened while eating in Monterosso.  My mother and I were feeling a bit hungry and were about to look for a place to eat.  Randomly, Mom said, “What about here?”  We were outside a turquoise blue and black colored place with indoor seating and outdoor seating overlooking the beach.  Gorgeous, and the food smelled great.  We sat down, and our friendly server said to us in perfect English: “Are you from NJ?”  My mother looked a bit embarrassed, thinking Is my accent that bad?  But actually, she’s originally from NYC.  Anyways, I said, “Yes,” wondering why she asked.  “Are you from Waldwick?”

“Yes. . .”

“Are you Rich’s sister?”

“Yes . . .” I was floored.

“I’m Christine.  I went to school with your brother.”

WOW!  My mom then immediately recognized her from the church and from town.  We talked a while, and she explained the story about meeting her boyfriend while studying abroad and how the family sponsored her work visa and now she works for the family business.  They also own the restaurant down the street.  Amazing.  So amazing that the Australian couple next to us who overheard . . . they were floored.

Christine said, “You should join our American girls’ club.  There are 16 of us in the area, 4 here in the Cinque Terre and a bunch in Genoa.”

“Definitely.”

With fellow Waldwick Girl, Christine at Cantina di Miky in Monterosso

With fellow Waldwick Girl, Christine at Cantina di Miky in Monterosso

The food at Cantina di Miky was so amazing and delicious that Mom and I went twice, and on our last night, we tried the food at the fabulous restaurant, Miky’s, and met most of the family.  These restaurants feature some of my favorite food in the region along with excellent hospitality, and I return each time I’m in the area now.

Mom and I finally had some warm sunshine on her last day in Genoa, and we enjoyed some time in the Medieval Center.  She left but said, “I’ll return soon . . . next time for a month.”  But right now, I’m writing this sitting next to Mamma on the couch in Waldwick, NJ.  🙂

Photos from Mom’s visit are featured below in this circle gallery.  Click any photo for an enlargement and entry into the gallery with captions.  With so many photos, I thought this was a better method than the slideshow.  All of these were taken with my Canon PowerShot SX260HS, which is a really nice pocket camera, but alas, not as stunning as my SLR.  I’ll have to make sure to use her more in next year’s adventures.  I just don’t always want to lug her around.  🙂

Back in the USA for Independence Day

It was super wonderful to be back in America for the 4th of July, which is both the birthday of America and my baby brother Rich.  When he was very little, he used to think the fireworks were for him.   And for many, many years, the entire family gathered at my parents’ house for a massive yet chill backyard BBQ / birthday celebration.  After a day of silly conversations, lots of amazing food, and chillaxin’ or napping in the grass with grill-scented dreams, we’d convene around a Carvel ice cream cake to sing Happy Birthday.   Everyone in Red, White, and Blue.  Family.  Friends.  Joy.  At night, I’d head off for some excitement with friends – fireworks, another BBQ or party.   I love this quintessentially American holiday – patriotism, a whole summer of memories awaiting us.  The anticipation of many good days.  The epitome of why I wanted to be home now.

When I get nostalgic for the way 4th of July used to be, I think of the last episode of The Wonder Years, as they celebrated Independence Day . . . one last time the way it was.

The next day Winnie and I came home. Back to where we’d started. It was the fourth of July in that little suburban town. Somehow, though, things were different. Our past was here, but our future was somewhere else, and we both knew sooner or later we had to go. It was the last July I ever spent in that town. The next year after graduation I was on my way [. . . ]Like I said things never turn out exactly the way you’d planned. Growing up happens in a heartbeat; one day you’re in diapers, the next day you’re gone.  But the memories of childhood stay with you for the long haul. I remember a place, a town, a house  like a lot of houses, a yard like a lot of other yards, on a street like a lot of other streets, and the thing is after all these years I still look back with wonder.

I grew up in Yonkers, NY on the border of the Bronx from 1980 to 1989 when I moved to a town much like that  portrayed in Wonder Years, one of the Post-War suburban ideals where kids could be kids, biking to their friends, enjoying and exploring with wonder.  Waldwick in Bergen County, NJ.  I love my Yonkers experience, and it played a huge role in shaping my early years, especially with visits to Grandma in Innwood, Manhattan–sometimes feeling like a NYC kid.  But I’m so grateful to my parents for choosing this beautiful, simple, peaceful town where I finished growing up and now stay when I return “home.”

Of course, just like for Kevin Arnold, home has changed.

After my grandparents passed away, as we all grew up and a bit more distant without the strong lure of the matriarch’s wings pulling us together, the giant family BBQ was canceled.  Instead, now it’s just my parents hosting their kids, who have returned to the nest for the day or the summer.  Yet while this year it was a bit quieter, with slightly less food and missing the laughter of my young cousins and the humor of my grandparents, it was a lovely day.

A friend visited me from the city, and we went swimming at Brookside, the lake where I used to lifeguard for many years.  We enjoyed excellent food at my parents’ house, including the Carvel cake, and then drove into the city for a rooftop BBQ with some of my best friends from Fordham.  Plenty of laughs, smiles, sunshine and relaxation as locals set off fireworks.  I spent much of that party sharing stories and ideas from my time in Genoa, feeling completely grateful that, at least for now, I have the best of both worlds.  I live a blessed life.

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With my friend Denis who hosted a fabulous rooftop BBQ with his wife Natalie.

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With my friend Kat, as you may remember from Whirlwind Weekend

When in Roma…

Once again I’m sharing a post by my colleague and friend at Italian Escapades. She had better weather and an overall better visit to Rome than I did my last time around. I went to Rome 3 different times and had 3 completely different experiences. I’m sure there is much more for future adventures. Her story and slideshow offers a perspective of some of the things we just couldn’t do because of the weather. Rome, I’ll be back! 🙂

EUROPEAN ESCAPADES

…Do as much as possible! I think it’s impossible to see all of Rome in a weekend, but on my birthday weekend/ Mother’s Day, my mom and I did a pretty good job at trying (although she might not recommend doing so!)!  We covered several areas, saw many piazzas, mastered some public transportation routes, and enjoyed good food and historical monuments.  We even randomly got to see a little boy don fire fighting gear and climb up the fire truck’s ladder into the top floor of a building where someone had left the gas on, or so the story goes.  Even the monotonous moments in Rome are actually rather momentous (even using automated public restrooms in train stations – but I’ll leave that story for my mom to tell!)!

Appropriately, just now as I was remembering the crisp, salty, slightly burnt taste of the fried artichokes in the Jewish ghetto…

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I’m a Stranger Here Myself

So here I am home again after 10 months away, with just a 2 week interlude at Christmas time.  Coming to America then after 4 months abroad, it was nice to be home; it was such a whirlwind that I didn’t have too much time to notice differences.  But now after 6 straight months, after Liguria started to feel like home, after I’ve gone through all the phases of culture shock and adjusted to life in Italy . . . coming home has been . . .surreal.

Back in my city with my Starbucks Iced Coffee and the Empire State Building in the background

Back in my city with my Starbucks Iced Coffee and the Empire State Building in the background

Of course home is comfortable.  And it’s wonderful not to work, focusing on traveling, seeing friends, and just curling up on a couch with a book or my computer and this blog.  🙂  But it has definitely been a kind of reverse culture shock that has had me feeling weird and sometimes overwhelmed.

They say, “Leave New York before you get too hard; leave Los Angeles before you get too soft.”  I chose Italy instead of Cali, I guess.  Same idea.  But while I’m still known around the school and the hood for my “tough, no nonsense, get it done and get it done now style” I have learned to relax and slow down more.  I have that side of me that loves “Il dolce far niente,” the sweetness of doing nothing, as the Italians like to say.  In New York, that is viewed as time wasted, and we’d be criticized for being unproductive.  Let me tell you, I love to chillax’ and I brought that peace right here to my couch and the local beaches.

Jones Beach Field 6 in Long Island -- where I went Saturday (not my own photo)

Jones Beach Field 6 in Long Island — where I went Saturday (not my own photo)

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A local swimming hole by my parents’ house. I used to be the head lifeguard here for many years. Now I just enjoy the sand and fresh water swimming.

Before boarding the plane, I had a strange thought.  “I’m heading back to a gun culture.”  A thought that never really crossed my mind until I had so much time away from it.  I could walk around Genoa at 3am, and often did.  Even in the “bad” neighborhoods, you wouldn’t have to worry about guns, and shootings were not really in the news.  I lived in a neighborhood in the Bronx where I used to hear gunshots periodically, sometimes once or twice a month or more.  I got used to it, and I knew how to protect myself and avoid dangerous situations.  But now that I’ve . . .softened . . . I’m wondering if I let my guard down too much.  I have to remind myself to watch my back but to avoid fear.  My coworker Paul said it best: “Genoa is so peaceful and passive.  We really don’t have much to worry about here, do we?”  And that has been nice.

There have been other moments of reverse culture shock that I will list.  Not necessarily bad, just clearly different.

  • Driving my car, I realized I didn’t have those smooth, sharp skills and couldn’t just parallel park her like a thoughtless breeze.  I did, however, improve my scooter skills during the past few months.
  • In the grocery store, I was overwhelmed and almost didn’t know how to handle it.  All the variety of foods that I couldn’t find for months.  Cheddar, all kinds of cheddar all over the place. Mexican, Thai, all kinds of options.  Yum!  And then aisles and aisles of pre-packaged, processed or frozen foods — foods that taste great but are filled with things that poison us.  I learned really quickly once I moved to Italy that my health, fitness, weight and general well being improved in days just by eating fresh food.  I missed a lot of these foods, but I knew that I couldn’t just dive in and gorge because my body is not used to it.  How do I shop now?  And oh wow, that blood orange juice from Italy is $7, where I could get it for 2 euros in Italy.
  • In Duane Reed, waiting for a train, I spent the time walking up and down the aisles at the absolute variety of products.  Dozens and dozens of options for shampoo, deodorant, even 5 types of nail scissors.  In Italy, you got the few items (or item) that the store chose.  And I saw Opi nail polish for $9.  It’s 17 euros in Genoa!  I just walked up and down, and left without anything. I have trained myself that I don’t need that much stuff, and ultimately can’t afford it.  But I was just mesmerized by the variety.
  • Walking through the streets of Manhattan, I heard English everywhere and felt comfortable.  And the streets were wide, big.  Manhattan is cramped and overbuilt, but there was space.  Genoa consists of tiny streets, alleys, roads where you have to squish up against a wall to avoid being slammed by a passing car’s mirror.
  • Lying in the sand at the beach. It was powdery, soft, take it home with you type sand.  So different from my pebbles or the trucked-in “tiny pebbles” that some beaches have.
  • Lawns and trees.  I’m staying at my parents’ house in the leafy suburbs in NJ, 25 minutes from Manhattan.  There are green, landscaped lawns everywhere.  Tall trees, pine trees, so many different types of vegetation.  I was worried how I’d react after leaving so much sublime and stunning beauty, but I have come to realize that it’s still beautiful here, just a different type of beauty. And I’m enjoying it.
  • Tipping.  As I purchased my Starbucks Iced Coffee from a drive through — how American!– I saw the tip jar and remembered to throw in a buck before grabbing my marshmallow dream bar.  I have to remind myself I’m back in a tipping culture.  In Genoa, you don’t really tip at all, except maybe a euro or two at the hair salon.  When I went out to eat, I had to remind myself that the bill was more than I thought.  I’m afraid I’ve turned so European that I’d accidentally leave without tipping — but luckily, I’ve been with others so far.  I did have that mistake in Ireland after a haircut when I walked out without tipping more than a couple of euros, then went back to be sure they got their 10 percent.  oops!  And as we know, the US is a 20 percent culture.  It’s so weird to me after so much time in Europe where it’s included.  But I know all too well that servers don’t get paid much.  When I worked at Chili’s after college before my Australian jaunt and then eventually grad school, I only made 2 bucks an hour on the clock!  Then I had to report my tips.  I needed those tips, and what I actually made wasn’t mine because I had to tip out to the bartender, the expeditor, the food runners, etc.  Whew.  Anyways, differences.

This is all that’s on my mind for now.  I’ll continue to post as they come to me.  It’s fun to drive the same roads and bridges, sit in the same diners and cafes, and visit the beaches and city streets that I missed so dearly during my time away almost as much as the faces of those I love.  But I’m not the me of Summer 2012 . . . I’m slightly European and it’s all slightly foreign.  Very interesting.

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I can’t even imagine how comedy author Bill Bryson felt after moving back to the USA after living in England with his wife and children for 20 years.  Upon his return, he published the book I’m A Stranger Here Myself, which I have chosen as the title of this post.