I’m a Stranger Here Myself

So here I am home again after 10 months away, with just a 2 week interlude at Christmas time.  Coming to America then after 4 months abroad, it was nice to be home; it was such a whirlwind that I didn’t have too much time to notice differences.  But now after 6 straight months, after Liguria started to feel like home, after I’ve gone through all the phases of culture shock and adjusted to life in Italy . . . coming home has been . . .surreal.

Back in my city with my Starbucks Iced Coffee and the Empire State Building in the background

Back in my city with my Starbucks Iced Coffee and the Empire State Building in the background

Of course home is comfortable.  And it’s wonderful not to work, focusing on traveling, seeing friends, and just curling up on a couch with a book or my computer and this blog.  🙂  But it has definitely been a kind of reverse culture shock that has had me feeling weird and sometimes overwhelmed.

They say, “Leave New York before you get too hard; leave Los Angeles before you get too soft.”  I chose Italy instead of Cali, I guess.  Same idea.  But while I’m still known around the school and the hood for my “tough, no nonsense, get it done and get it done now style” I have learned to relax and slow down more.  I have that side of me that loves “Il dolce far niente,” the sweetness of doing nothing, as the Italians like to say.  In New York, that is viewed as time wasted, and we’d be criticized for being unproductive.  Let me tell you, I love to chillax’ and I brought that peace right here to my couch and the local beaches.

Jones Beach Field 6 in Long Island -- where I went Saturday (not my own photo)

Jones Beach Field 6 in Long Island — where I went Saturday (not my own photo)

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A local swimming hole by my parents’ house. I used to be the head lifeguard here for many years. Now I just enjoy the sand and fresh water swimming.

Before boarding the plane, I had a strange thought.  “I’m heading back to a gun culture.”  A thought that never really crossed my mind until I had so much time away from it.  I could walk around Genoa at 3am, and often did.  Even in the “bad” neighborhoods, you wouldn’t have to worry about guns, and shootings were not really in the news.  I lived in a neighborhood in the Bronx where I used to hear gunshots periodically, sometimes once or twice a month or more.  I got used to it, and I knew how to protect myself and avoid dangerous situations.  But now that I’ve . . .softened . . . I’m wondering if I let my guard down too much.  I have to remind myself to watch my back but to avoid fear.  My coworker Paul said it best: “Genoa is so peaceful and passive.  We really don’t have much to worry about here, do we?”  And that has been nice.

There have been other moments of reverse culture shock that I will list.  Not necessarily bad, just clearly different.

  • Driving my car, I realized I didn’t have those smooth, sharp skills and couldn’t just parallel park her like a thoughtless breeze.  I did, however, improve my scooter skills during the past few months.
  • In the grocery store, I was overwhelmed and almost didn’t know how to handle it.  All the variety of foods that I couldn’t find for months.  Cheddar, all kinds of cheddar all over the place. Mexican, Thai, all kinds of options.  Yum!  And then aisles and aisles of pre-packaged, processed or frozen foods — foods that taste great but are filled with things that poison us.  I learned really quickly once I moved to Italy that my health, fitness, weight and general well being improved in days just by eating fresh food.  I missed a lot of these foods, but I knew that I couldn’t just dive in and gorge because my body is not used to it.  How do I shop now?  And oh wow, that blood orange juice from Italy is $7, where I could get it for 2 euros in Italy.
  • In Duane Reed, waiting for a train, I spent the time walking up and down the aisles at the absolute variety of products.  Dozens and dozens of options for shampoo, deodorant, even 5 types of nail scissors.  In Italy, you got the few items (or item) that the store chose.  And I saw Opi nail polish for $9.  It’s 17 euros in Genoa!  I just walked up and down, and left without anything. I have trained myself that I don’t need that much stuff, and ultimately can’t afford it.  But I was just mesmerized by the variety.
  • Walking through the streets of Manhattan, I heard English everywhere and felt comfortable.  And the streets were wide, big.  Manhattan is cramped and overbuilt, but there was space.  Genoa consists of tiny streets, alleys, roads where you have to squish up against a wall to avoid being slammed by a passing car’s mirror.
  • Lying in the sand at the beach. It was powdery, soft, take it home with you type sand.  So different from my pebbles or the trucked-in “tiny pebbles” that some beaches have.
  • Lawns and trees.  I’m staying at my parents’ house in the leafy suburbs in NJ, 25 minutes from Manhattan.  There are green, landscaped lawns everywhere.  Tall trees, pine trees, so many different types of vegetation.  I was worried how I’d react after leaving so much sublime and stunning beauty, but I have come to realize that it’s still beautiful here, just a different type of beauty. And I’m enjoying it.
  • Tipping.  As I purchased my Starbucks Iced Coffee from a drive through — how American!– I saw the tip jar and remembered to throw in a buck before grabbing my marshmallow dream bar.  I have to remind myself I’m back in a tipping culture.  In Genoa, you don’t really tip at all, except maybe a euro or two at the hair salon.  When I went out to eat, I had to remind myself that the bill was more than I thought.  I’m afraid I’ve turned so European that I’d accidentally leave without tipping — but luckily, I’ve been with others so far.  I did have that mistake in Ireland after a haircut when I walked out without tipping more than a couple of euros, then went back to be sure they got their 10 percent.  oops!  And as we know, the US is a 20 percent culture.  It’s so weird to me after so much time in Europe where it’s included.  But I know all too well that servers don’t get paid much.  When I worked at Chili’s after college before my Australian jaunt and then eventually grad school, I only made 2 bucks an hour on the clock!  Then I had to report my tips.  I needed those tips, and what I actually made wasn’t mine because I had to tip out to the bartender, the expeditor, the food runners, etc.  Whew.  Anyways, differences.

This is all that’s on my mind for now.  I’ll continue to post as they come to me.  It’s fun to drive the same roads and bridges, sit in the same diners and cafes, and visit the beaches and city streets that I missed so dearly during my time away almost as much as the faces of those I love.  But I’m not the me of Summer 2012 . . . I’m slightly European and it’s all slightly foreign.  Very interesting.

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I can’t even imagine how comedy author Bill Bryson felt after moving back to the USA after living in England with his wife and children for 20 years.  Upon his return, he published the book I’m A Stranger Here Myself, which I have chosen as the title of this post.

Sweet Home New York City

I love my life in Italy; it’s a magical adventure filled with wonder, many discoveries, and lots of beauty.  School is a full and fantastic busy, and I have fabulous colleagues.  Yet . . . my home will always be NYC.

Getting here was quite an adventure.  I departed on the morning of December 20th, eager for an evening arrival home.  Mamma’s cooking, cuddling with my cats, and seeing friends — a cozy, chill welcome.  Instead, my flight from Genoa was cancelled.  I was at the airport with several colleagues who were taking the same connecting flight to Munich before departing for our various destinations across the US.  As we waited, we saw one of my students, his sister and father.  They were on their way to LA.

DELAYED.  We stared at the board and I grew more and more nervous as my connection in Munich was just over an hour.  First a half hour delay, then an hour delay.  Then it disappeared off the monitor.  This was how they informed us that our flight was cancelled. We followed my students’ father outside security as he explained that this happened last week with the same flight.  Mechanical difficulties.  My student said, ‘They were spinning the propellar for an hour, then gave up.”

After an hour online to rebook our tickets, wondering if they could find us seats during the Christmas rush, we finally had our new connections.  I was going to Munich at 5, then to Frankfurt where I’d sleep in a hotel and fly out the next morning.  17 hour delay.  During this process, several other coworkers popped into the airport for Ryan Air flights to England.  When Ryan Air is the reliable flight, you know you’re in trouble.

I was sad because I was supposed to land in NYC at 6pm that night, and possibly go out to meet some friends.  But instead, I passed out exhausted in a really nice hotel room with light snow outside in Munich.  It looked like the bed was comfortable until I went onto it and almost bounced off a la Clark Griswold in European Vacation.

To the airport early in the AM.  Lufthansa was full so they rebooked me on United and the woman was kind and upgraded me to premium economy extra legroom seat.  I didn’t realize until I boarded the plane and learned that these seats usually cost an extra $179 each way.  Finally a break.  I slept most of the flight, read a bit, and then flew over Brookside Swim Club, my old summer hangout where I worked, taught swim lessons, and was head lifeguard for many years.  Now I go as a patron.  My parents live very close, so I tried to spot the house, but couldn’t find it.  I did see my high school, then the NYC skyline.  Oh, how could I ever leave this great city?  Only for a place as magnificent as Italy. I swear, New Yorkers have to be darned choosy when we take a post overseas.  And there’s no where else I’d rather live in the states.

Groggy and sleepy, I showered for a tea party with family friends, then showered again to go to a dinner party.  Halfway through the appetizers, it was 3:45am on my clock.  I didn’t make it to dinner and was in bed soon after.  On my way out of the city, I met up with a friend for quick drink and a fun reunion.  I mentioned something about going home on January 5th, and he said, “This is home.  You are going to Italy on January 5th.”  Ahh, yes.

The following day, I chilled, went for a haircut and enjoyed my cats.  On the 23rd, my parents and I took a train into Manhattan to see the decorations, the windows, and go to the Bryan Park Christmas Markets, a tradition my mom and I have done since 2007.  This year, Dad joined.  It was a beautiful sunny day, and it hurt my heart to see places that were so everday to me, so splendid . . .and knowing that soon I have to leave again until the summer.

Christmas Eve, I met up with two great friends for lunch in Ho-Ho-Kus.  Turkey and Brie.  mmm.  Turkey!  My brother joined the fam for dinner that night, and then it began snowing! Soon after, I drove to Fordham to sing with choir alumni in the beautiful Midnight Mass, a tradition that I have been doing since 2002 after I graduated.

Christmas Day, I woke up to a sunny, cozy morning, nursed a big coffee (can’t do that in Italy, although the flavor is much better) and opened a handful of gifts.  It was a modest Christmas, but that is good because how much can I carry back anyway?  And I got some nice things, including a Chi flat iron to play with.  Also, I have a nice check which I decided to use for Spring Break.  I’m taking suggestions.  Where shall I go? So exciting.

It was so wonderful to be with the family, with everyone I love.  It is very strange to live abroad, with people who are fast acquaintances and buddies, but you are away from your true friends and family.  Your coworkers become your surrogate family — but it’s just not the same.  Permanent expat life is so tempting, but this is the hard side.  Being away.  I don’t think I can stay forever.  But the reunion was so nice and filled me with a warm glow.  Content.  I am blessed.

Merry Christmas.  Buon Natale a tutti!

Here is a slideshow of my pictures in America so far.

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Flying over Brookside. By the time I got my camera out, a cloud was in the way, but it’s the oval below with the docks. Cute.

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My high school

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NYC skyline

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1 World Trade Center with the newly added spire

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Macy’s Herald Square

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Bryant Park

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I Love NY and NJ

A friend told me that when he found out his girlfriend was in the hospital, he jumped into a state of panic and would do anything to help, to ease her suffering. But he was far away at the time, and explained it was one of the most awful and terrifying feelings.  He said, “You never went through that, so you don’t know how it was.”  Well, I do now.  The love of my life is the NYC metro area.  But here in Genoa, there’s nothing I can really do but read and show my support.

It was a difficult decision to leave all my friends and family, and one of the greatest cities in the world with one of the nicest stretch of sandy beaches — the CT sound, Long Island, Queens, and my beloved Jersey shore.  In the months leading up to my departure, I embarked on a “Grand Farewell Tour,” where I road-tripped to favorite spots — hiking in the mountains, visiting friends, and heading downtown to enjoy all the beautiful and wonderful things in my city.  And my favorite part of the Grand Farewell Tour were all my weekend visits to beaches with one of my best friends.  We went everywhere.

When we were at Point Pleasant, we gorged on greasy shore food from fried oysters to jalepeno poppers, washed it down with a cherry ice water, followed it up with an ice cream, then worked it all off in the waves for hours, bodysurfing and boogie boarding and feeling childlike bliss.  Lying in the sand at the end of the day, salty and sun-kissed, we knew we had to hit the road for the traffic back home — otherwise, we would have stayed until the sun sank into the horizon and the stars appeared.

Point Pleasant Beach Boardwalk – memories from age 9 to today.

The day after my birthday in August, we went to Belmar, with a smaller more residential boardwalk and a more intimate beach setting.  The waves were rough, tumbling us around like clothes in a washing machine, tossing me into the sandshell-strewn beach several times: the power of the ocean, of nature.  It was another one of the best days of summer, followed by ice cream at what was probably the best place in Jersey.  Chocolate peanut butter in a sugar cone.  We were surrounded by kids and families and friends and everyone with that Jersey Shore smile.  A day of beauty, of simple pleasures– holding on to the summer that was slipping away.

Homemade delicious ice cream and memories.

Belmar boardwalk

That was my last beach day this year.  The next time I hit the salt water, it was on a pebbly “beach” here in Genoa, with calm blue waters, surrounded by dramatic cliffs and Italian bars.  Different.  I am so happy to live by the sea now; it’s always been a dream.  Yet I miss the sandy beaches and quaint seaside neighborhoods of the Jersey Shore.  I was looking forward to another beachy summer next year, visiting my favorite places and exploring new ones.  Braving hours of traffic along with other beach-goers and only half minding because it’s so special and everyone’s so happy.  It is the playground for the NY / NJ metro area.

Well, here are scenes from the Jersey Shore after Hurricane Sandy hit.  25 heartbreaking pictures.  The shore was pummeled, with images that reminded me of Hurricane Katrina.  I was so moved and horrified by the scenes of Katrina that I signed up for a Global Outreach alumni volunteer trip with Fordham University.  I wrote the following article about my experience — even 6 months later, it was so devastated and heartbreaking.  I open, saying: “I was expecting tears. Instead, I was numb.”  That’s how I feel right now — always on the verge of tears, but just in shock.  Bearing Witness in New Orleans  The tears will surface soon, I’m sure . . . once I can fully absorb and comprehend what has happened.

So much of NYC area was damaged as well.  My brother has a music studio in Jersey City that was flooded with a few feet of water mixed with sewage and diesel.  It took years to build everything and now they must rebuild.  But they are ok.  Those same guys also are part owners of a Brooklyn Liquor Company (Jack from Brooklyn) located in Red Hook.  They produce Sorel, an awesome liqueur infused with hibiscus, Brazilian clove, Nigerian ginger among other special flavors.   I crave it here in Genoa and can’t wait for a sip when I return at Christmas.  Red Hook was severely flooded, and I don’t know how bad the headquarters was hit, but the guys tried to prep it as much as possible. 2012 was the Summer of Sorel, as this small company released their delicious hand-crafted product.  I went to so many Sorel events, and spent so many lazy backyard days, sipping Sorel on ice and enjoying the Good Life.  Savor every moment because things can change in a flash.

Without a TV in Genoa or access to the news reports, I get so much of my news from facebook statuses and links.  Each revelation turns my stomach: Breezy Point, Queens – flooded then burned to the ground.  Body count rising everywhere.  People all over killed in their sleep by fallen trees.  People dying from carbon monoxide poisoning due to their generators.  Survivors who have lost their homes, their cars, their communities.  Families cold and in the dark without power.  My parents in the leafy suburbs might not get power back for 10 more days or so.  Dad has to keep going to work in Secaucus, with a view of the broken crane in midtown.  Mom tries to stay warm.  Everyone must wait in line for hours to get gas — pumps at most stations not working due to electricity.  It sounds like it’s from some kind of disaster or horror movie.  But it’s real.   “You don’t want to be here,” said Dad. “Be glad you are in Europe now.  It’s terrible here.” He’s at work, panicked with stress — distanced.  “Enjoy Belgium.”

I am.  There is a magic, peaceful beauty here — a timeless fairytale break from reality.  Bruges has a special power to soothe.  It’s raining today — and I really need a break.  As it’s my 9th visit to this gorgeous city, I’ve seen much of it.  I’m here to enjoy and rest.  Food, relaxation, contemplation.  Perhaps some Flemish art.

Tonight, I stay in Ghent with a great friend I met here in Bruges over 11 years ago.  Tomorrow we will meet up with the other friend before heading back to Bruges.  Two guys I ran into all those years ago who have become lifelong friends and confidantes.  The wonder of travel and the wonder of modern communication, first via email, scrawled on a bar coaster.  And now facebook.  The world is small.  And I am looking forward to good conversations, laughter, and connection.  Just as E.M. Forester says in Howard’s End “Only Connect.”  And while I enjoy traveling on my own quite frequently, I just want to reach out and connect.  We get through tragedies through the triumph of the human spirit.  My dear New York area, I can’t be with you physically but I am there in spirit, loving you and thinking about you and wishing you well.